My First Winter in Niseko: What a Hokkaido Local Got Wrong (So You Don't Have To)

Short answer first. Even as someone who grew up in Hokkaido, my first winter in Niseko was full of mistakes. I thought nothing about the snow or the cold could surprise me. What surprised me was that the whole town felt like another country, the prices, and the mountain weather. Here's what I got wrong in 2018, my first winter here as a ski instructor — honestly, so you don't have to.

• What surprised me: English on every sign and in every conversation. ¥2,000 lunches, ¥1,000 beers
• Mistake 1, money: almost no income at the start of the season. December was pasta and cup noodles
• Mistake 2, goggles: I came with one sunny-day lens and had to buy another on day one
• Mistake 3, timing: the upper lifts stopped for wind on the far side of the mountain and I couldn't get back
• What I'd tell myself: "Go with the mountain. And save some money before you come"

Day one: "Is this really Hokkaido?"

The day I arrived was grey, and only the bottom half of Mt Yotei was visible. Driving up the hill into Hirafu, every sign was in English, and nearly everyone walking around was from overseas.

I'm from Hokkaido, so I'd thought of Niseko as "the ski area with good snow." When I got here, the whole town felt like it was abroad. The first shop I went into was a Seicomart (Hokkaido's convenience store chain), and everyone in the queue was speaking English. It made me laugh.

The prices surprised me too: ¥2,000 for lunch, ¥1,000 for a beer. Reach for your wallet with prices from other Hokkaido ski areas in mind and your hand stops.

And every morning started with digging the car out of the snow. I hadn't planned for that.

Mistake 1: I got the money wrong

Instructors only earn when lessons come in. At the start of the season there's not much snow and not many guests, and for about the first three weeks I earned almost nothing. December was cheap Seicomart pasta and cup noodles.

For a visitor, that translates to:

• Early December has less snow and fewer places open
• Don't budget using prices from elsewhere in Hokkaido
• Leave room in your budget

Mistake 2: one goggle lens

I came with a single dark lens for sunny days. But in my experience, a Niseko winter has far more grey and snowy days than sunny ones. On day one I couldn't see a bump on an easy slope, rode straight into it and fell. I bought a brighter lens that same day — something over ¥10,000, I think.

• Always bring a bright lens for cloudy and snowy days
• If your goggles take interchangeable lenses, bring two

Mistake 3: I misjudged my day off

On a day off I went all the way to the other side of the mountain, and the upper lifts stopped for wind. I couldn't get back. The bus home was full, so I let one go and waited about an hour altogether. By the time I got to my room it was after 6pm and pitch dark.

• On windy days, the upper lifts can stop
• If you're heading to a far resort, check the bus home first
• Start heading back early in the afternoon

A local tip: Niseko's mountain doesn't bend to your plans. Don't count on sunshine, don't assume you'll get to the top, and head home early. The people who go with the mountain end up skiing the most.

What I'd tell my first-winter self

"Go with the mountain. And save some money before you come." (Ha.)

Looking back, every mistake came from things being different from what I'd pictured — the prices, the weather, the lifts. Almost all of it is avoidable if you know.

More of what I tell first-timers is in Before Your First Niseko Trip.

FAQ

Are there really that many foreigners in Hirafu?

In winter, Hirafu's signs and menus put English first, and most of the conversation you hear is in English. Head into Kutchan town or to the other side of the mountain and the feel changes.

Which goggles should I bring to Niseko in winter?

A bright lens for cloudy and snowy days. With only a dark sunny-day lens, it's hard to see the shape of the snow.

Do lifts stop because of wind?

Yes — especially the upper lifts on windy days. If you're heading to a far resort, decide how you'll get back before you go.

— Niseko Hub Editorial Team